Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

An account of travels in the interior including visits to the aborigines of Yezo and the shrine of Nikko

by

Isabella L. Bird

Table of Contents

PREFACE

LETTER I

First View of Japan—A Vision of Fujisan—Japanese Sampans— “Pullman Cars”—Undignified Locomotion—Paper Money—The Drawbacks of Japanese Travelling.

LETTER II

Sir Harry Parkes—An “Ambassador’s Carriage”—Cart Coolies.

LETTER III

Yedo and Tokiyo—The Yokohama Railroad—The Effect of Misfits—The Plain of Yedo—Personal Peculiarities—First Impressions of Tokiyo—H. B. M.‘s Legation—An English Home.

LETTER IV

“John Chinaman”—Engaging a Servant—First Impressions of Ito—A Solemn Contract—The Food Question.

LETTER V

Kwan-non Temple—Uniformity of Temple Architecture—A Kuruma Expedition—A Perpetual Festival—The Ni-o—The Limbo of Vanity— Heathen Prayers—Binzuru—A Group of Devils—Archery Galleries—New Japan—An Elegante.

LETTER VI

Fears—Travelling Equipments—Passports—Coolie Costume—A Yedo Diorama—Rice–Fields—Tea–Houses—A Traveller’s Reception—The Inn at Kasukabe—Lack of Privacy—A Concourse of Noises—A Nocturnal Alarm—A Vision of Policemen—A Budget from Yedo.

LETTER VI—(Continued)

A Coolie falls ill—Peasant Costume—Varieties in Threshing—The Tochigi yadoya—Farming Villages—A Beautiful Region—An In Memoriam Avenue—A Doll’s Street—Nikko—The Journey’s End—Coolie Kindliness.

LETTER VII

A Japanese Idyll—Musical Stillness —My Rooms—Floral Decorations—Kanaya and his Household—Table Equipments.

LETTER VIII

The Beauties of Nikko—The Burial of Iyeyasu—The Approach to the Great Shrines—The Yomei Gate—Gorgeous Decorations—Simplicity of the Mausoleum—The Shrine of Iyemitsu—Religious Art of Japan and India—An Earthquake—Beauties of Wood-carving.

LETTER IX

A Japanese Pack–Horse and Pack–Saddle—Yadoya and Attendant—A Native Watering–Place—The Sulphur Baths—A “Squeeze.”

LETTER X

Peaceful Monotony—A Japanese School—A Dismal Ditty—Punishment—A Children’s Party—A Juvenile Belle—Female Names—A Juvenile Drama—Needlework—Calligraphy—Arranging Flowers—Kanaya—Daily Routine— —An Evening’s Entertainment—Planning Routes—The God-shelf.

LETTER X—(Continued)

Darkness visible—Nikko Shops—Girls and Matrons—Night and Sleep— Parental Love—Childish Docility—Hair-dressing—Skin Diseases.

LETTER X—(Completed)

Shops and Shopping—The Barber’s Shop—A Paper Waterproof—Ito’s Vanity—Preparations for the Journey—Transport and Prices—Money and Measurements.

LETTER XI

Comfort disappears—Fine Scenery—An Alarm—A Farm-house—An unusual Costume—Bridling a Horse—Female Dress and Ugliness— Babies—My Mago—Beauties of the Kinugawa—Fujihara—My Servant— Horse-shoes—An absurd Mistake.

LETTER XII

A Fantastic Jumble—The “Quiver” of Poverty—The Water-shed—From Bad to Worse—The Rice Planter’s Holiday—A Diseased Crowd—Amateur Doctoring—Want of Cleanliness—Rapid Eating—Premature Old Age.

LETTER XII—(Concluded)

A Japanese Ferry—A Corrugated Road—The Pass of Sanno—Various Vegetation—An Unattractive Undergrowth—Preponderance of Men.

LETTER XIII

The Plain of Wakamatsu—Light Costume—The Takata Crowd—A Congress of Schoolmasters—Timidity of a Crowd—Bad Roads—Vicious Horses— Mountain Scenery—A Picturesque Inn—Swallowing a Fish-bone— Poverty and Suicide—An Inn-kitchen—England Unknown!—My Breakfast Disappears.

LETTER XIV

An Infamous Road—Monotonous Greenery—Abysmal Dirt—Low Lives—The Tsugawa Yadoya—Politeness—A Shipping Port—A Barbarian Devil.

LETTER XV

A Hurry—The Tsugawa Packet-boat—Running the Rapids—Fantastic Scenery—The River-life—Vineyards—Drying Barley—Summer Silence— The Outskirts of Niigata—The Church Mission House.

LETTER XVI

Abominable Weather—Insect Pests—Absence of Foreign Trade—A Refractory River—Progress—The Japanese City—Water Highways— Niigata Gardens—Ruth Fyson—The Winter Climate—A Population in Wadding.

LETTER XVII

The Canal-side at Niigata—Awful Loneliness—Courtesy—Dr. Palm’s Tandem—A Noisy Matsuri—A Jolting Journey—The Mountain Villages— Winter Dismalness—An Out-of-the-world Hamlet—Crowded Dwellings— Riding a Cow—“Drunk and Disorderly”—An Enforced Rest—Local Discouragements—Heavy Loads—Absence of Beggary—Slow Travelling.

LETTER XVIII

Comely Kine—Japanese Criticism on a Foreign Usage—A Pleasant Halt—Renewed Courtesies—The Plain of Yonezawa—A Curious Mistake—The Mother’s Memorial—Arrival at Komatsu—Stately Accommodation— A Vicious Horse—An Asiatic Arcadia—A Fashionable Watering-place— A Belle—“Godowns.”

LETTER XIX

Prosperity—Convict Labour—A New Bridge—Yamagata—Intoxicating Forgeries—The Government Buildings—Bad Manners—Snow Mountains—A Wretched Town.

LETTER XX

The Effect of a Chicken—Poor Fare—Slow Travelling—Objects of Interest—Kak’ke—The Fatal Close—A Great Fire—Security of the Kuras.

LETTER XX—(Continued)

Lunch in Public—A Grotesque Accident—Police Inquiries—Man or Woman?—A Melancholy Stare—A Vicious Horse—An Ill-favoured Town— A Disappointment—A Torii.

LETTER XX—(Concluded)

A Casual Invitation—A Ludicrous Incident—Politeness of a Policeman—A Comfortless Sunday—An Outrageous Irruption—A Privileged Stare.

LETTER XXI

The Necessity of Firmness—Perplexing Misrepresentations—Gliding with the Stream—Suburban Residences—The Kubota Hospital—A Formal Reception—The Normal School.

LETTER XXII

A Silk Factory—Employment for Women—A Police Escort—The Japanese Police Force.

LETTER XXIII

“A Plague of Immoderate Rain”—A Confidential Servant—Ito’s Diary—Ito’s Excellences—Ito’s Faults—Prophecy of the Future of Japan— Curious Queries—Superfine English—Economical Travelling—The Japanese Pack-horse again.

LETTER XXIV

The Symbolism of Seaweed—Afternoon Visitors—An Infant Prodigy—A Feat in Caligraphy—Child Worship—A Borrowed Dress—A Trousseau— House Furniture—The Marriage Ceremony.

LETTER XXV

A Holiday Scene—A Matsuri—Attractions of the Revel—Matsuri Cars—Gods and Demons—A Possible Harbour—A Village Forge—Prosperity of Sake Brewers—A “Great Sight.”

LETTER XXVI

The Fatigues of Travelling—Torrents and Mud—Ito’s Surliness—The Blind Shampooers—A Supposed Monkey Theatre—A Suspended Ferry—A Difficult Transit—Perils on the Yonetsurugawa—A Boatman Drowned— Nocturnal Disturbances—A Noisy Yadoya—Storm-bound Travellers— Hai! Hai!—More Nocturnal Disturbances

LETTER XXVII

Good-tempered Intoxication—The Effect of Sunshine—A tedious Altercation—Evening Occupations—Noisy Talk—Social Gathering— Unfair Comparisons.

LETTER XXVIII

Torrents of Rain—An unpleasant Detention—Devastations produced by Floods—The Yadate Pass—The Force of Water—Difficulties thicken— A Primitive Yadoya—The Water rises.

LETTER XXVIII—(Continued)

Scanty Resources—Japanese Children—Children’s Games—A Sagacious Example—A Kite Competition—Personal Privations.

LETTER XXIX

Hope deferred—Effects of the Flood—Activity of the Police—A Ramble in Disguise—The Tanabata Festival—Mr. Satow’s Reputation.

LETTER XXX

A Lady’s Toilet—Hair-dressing—Paint and Cosmetics—Afternoon Visitors—Christian Converts.

LETTER XXXI

A Travelling Curiosity—Rude Dwellings—Primitive Simplicity—The Public Bath-house.

LETTER XXXII

A Hard Day’s Journey—An Overturn—Nearing the Ocean—Joyful Excitement—Universal Greyness—Inopportune Policemen—A Stormy Voyage—A Wild Welcome—A Windy Landing—The Journey’s End.

LETTER XXXIII

Form and Colour—A Windy Capital—Eccentricities in House Roofs.

LETTER XXXIV

Ito’s Delinquency—“Missionary Manners”—A Predicted Failure.

LETTER XXXV

A Lovely Sunset—An Official Letter—A “Front Horse”—Japanese Courtesy—The Steam Ferry—Coolies Abscond—A Team of Savages—A Drove of Horses—Floral Beauties—An Unbeaten Track—A Ghostly Dwelling—Solitude and Eeriness.

LETTER XXXV—(Continued)

The Harmonies of Nature—A Good Horse—A Single Discord—A Forest— Aino Ferrymen—“Les Puces! Les Puces!”—Baffled Explorers—Ito’s Contempt for Ainos—An Aino Introduction.

LETTER XXXVI

Savage Life—A Forest Track—Cleanly Villages—A Hospitable Reception—The Chief’s Mother—The Evening Meal—A Savage Seance— Libations to the Gods—Nocturnal Silence—Aino Courtesy—The Chief’s Wife.

LETTER XXXVI—(Continued)

A Supposed Act of Worship—Parental Tenderness—Morning Visits— Wretched Cultivation—Honesty and Generosity—A “Dug-out”—Female Occupations—The Ancient Fate—A New Arrival—A Perilous Prescription—The Shrine of Yoshitsune—The Chief’s Return.

LETTER XXXVII

Barrenness of Savage Life—Irreclaimable Savages—The Aino Physique—Female Comeliness— Torture and Ornament—Child Life— Docility and Obedience.

LETTER XXXVII—(Continued)

Aino Clothing—Holiday Dress—Domestic Architecture—Household Gods—Japanese Curios—The Necessaries of Life—Clay Soup—Arrow Poison—Arrow–Traps—Female Occupations—Bark Cloth—The Art of Weaving.

LETTER XXXVII—(Continued)

A Simple Nature–Worship—Aino Gods—A Festival Song—Religious Intoxication—Bear–Worship—The Annual Saturnalia—The Future State—Marriage and Divorce—Musical Instruments—Etiquette—The Chieftainship—Death and Burial—Old Age—Moral Qualities.

LETTER XXXVIII

A Parting Gift—A Delicacy—Generosity—A Seaside Village— Pipichari’s Advice—A Drunken Revel—Ito’s Prophecies—The Kocho’s Illness—Patent Medicines.

LETTER XXXIX

A Welcome Gift—Recent Changes—Volcanic Phenomena—Interesting Tufa Cones—Semi-strangulation—A Fall into a Bear-trap—The Shiraoi Ainos—Horsebreaking and Cruelty.

LETTER XXXIX—(Continued)

The Universal Language—The Yezo Corrals—A “Typhoon Rain”— Difficult Tracks—An Unenviable Ride—Drying Clothes—A Woman’s Remorse.

LETTER XL

“More than Peace”—Geographical Difficulties—Usu-taki—Swimming the Osharu—A Dream of Beauty—A Sunset Effect—A Nocturnal Alarm— The Coast Ainos.

LETTER XL—(Continued)

The Sea-shore—A “Hairy Aino”—A Horse Fight—The Horses of Yezo— “Bad Mountains”—A Slight Accident—Magnificent Scenery—A Bleached Halting–Place—A Musty Room—Aino “Good-breeding.”

LETTER XLI

A Group of Fathers—The Lebunge Ainos—The Salisburia adiantifolia—A Family Group—The Missing Link—Oshamambe—Disorderly Horses— The River Yurapu—The Seaside—Aino Canoes—The Last Morning— Dodging Europeans.

LETTER XLII

Pleasant Last Impressions—The Japanese Junk—Ito Disappears—My Letter of Thanks.

LETTER XLIII

Pleasant Prospects—A Miserable Disappointment—Caught in a Typhoon—A Dense Fog—Alarmist Rumours—A Welcome at Tokiyo—The Last of the Mutineers.

LETTER XLIV

Fine Weather—Cremation in Japan—The Governor of Tokiyo—An Awkward Question—An Insignificant Building—Economy in Funeral Expenses—Simplicity of the Cremation Process—The Last of Japan.

Derived from the 1911 John Murray edition.

Rendered into HTML on Sunday January 4 16:12:31 CST 2004, by Steve Thomas for The University of Adelaide Library Electronic Texts Collection.

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