Wild Wales

by

George Borrow

Table of Contents

  1. Proposed Excursion — Knowledge of Welsh — Singular Groom — Harmonious Distich — Welsh Pronunciation — Dafydd Ab Gwilym.
  2. The Starting — Peterborough Cathedral — Anglo–Saxon Names — Kaempe Viser — Steam — Norman Barons — Chester Ale — Sion Tudor — Pretty Welsh Tongue.
  3. Chester — The Rows — Lewis Glyn Cothi — Tragedy of Mold — Native of Antigua — Slavery and the Americans — The Tents — Saturday Night.
  4. Sunday Morning — Tares and Wheat — Teetotalism — Hearsay — Irish Family — What Profession? — Sabbath Evening — Priest or Minister — Give us God.
  5. Welsh Book Stall — Wit and Poetry — Welsh of Chester — Beautiful Morning — Noble Fellow — The Coiling Serpent — Wrexham Church — Welsh or English? — Codiad yr Ehedydd.
  6. Llangollen — Wyn Ab Nudd — The Dee — Dinas Bran.
  7. Poor Black Cat — Dissenters — Persecution — What Impudence!
  8. The Mowers — Deep Welsh — Extensive View — Old Celtic Hatred — Fish Preserving — Smollet’s Morgan.
  9. The Dinner — English Foibles — Pengwern — The Yew–Tree — Carn–Lleidyr — Applications of a Term.
  10. The Berwyn — Mountain Cottage — The Barber’s Pole.
  11. Welsh Farm–House — A Poet’s Grandson — Hospitality — Mountain Village — Madoc — The Native Valley — Corpse Candles — The Midnight Call.
  12. A Calvinistic–Methodist — Turn for Saxon — Our Congregation — Pont y Cyssyltau — Catherine Lingo.
  13. Divine Service — Llangollen Bells — Iolo Goch — The Abbey — Twm o’r Nant — Holy Well — Thomas Edwards
  14. Expedition to Ruthyn — The Column — Slate Quarries — The Gwyddelod — Nocturnal Adventure.
  15. The Turf Tavern — Don’t Understand — The Best Welsh — The Maids of Merion — Old and New — Ruthyn — The Ash Yggdrasill.
  16. Baptist Tomb–Stone — The Toll–Bar — Rebecca — The Guitar.
  17. John Jones and his Bundle — A Good Lady — The Irishman’s Dingle — Ab Gwilym and the Mist — The Kitchen — The Two Individuals — The Horse–Dealer — I can manage him — The Mist Again.
  18. Venerable Old Gentleman — Surnames in Wales — Russia and Britain — Church of England — Yriarte — The Eagle and his Young — Poets of the Gael — The Oxonian — Master Salisburie.
  19. The Vicar and his Family — Evan Evans — Foaming Ale — Llam y Lleidyr — Baptism — Joost Van Vondel — Over to Rome — The Miller’s Man — Welsh and English.
  20. Huw Morris — Immortal Elegy — The Valley of Ceiriog — Tangled Wilderness — Perplexity — Chair of Huw Morris — The Walking Stick — Huw’s Descendant — Pont y Meibion.
  21. The Gloomy Valley — The Lonely Cottage — Happy Comparison — Clogs — The Alder Swamp — The Wooden Leg — The Militiaman — Death-bed Verses.
  22. Llangollen Fair — Buyers and Sellers — The Jockey — The Greek Cap.
  23. An Expedition — Pont y Pandy — The Sabbath — Glendower’s Mount — Burial Place of Old — Corwen — The Deep Glen — The Grandmother — The Roadside Chapel.
  24. Cerrig y Drudion — The Landlady — Doctor Jones — Coll Gwynfa — The Italian — Men of Como — Disappointment — Weather — Glasses — Southey.
  25. Lacing-up High-lows — The Native Village — Game Leg — Croppies Lie Down — Keeping Faith — Processions — Croppies Get Up — Daniel O’Connell.
  26. Ceiniog Mawr — Pentre Voelas — The Old Conway — Stupendous Pass — The Gwedir Family — Capel Curig — The Two Children — Bread — Wonderful Echo — Tremendous Walker.
  27. Bangor — Edmund Price — The Bridges — Bookselling — Future Pope — Wild Irish — Southey.
  28. Robert Lleiaf — Prophetic Englyn — The Second Sight — Duncan Campbell — Nial’s Saga — Family of Nial — Gunnar — The Avenger.
  29. Snowdon — Caernarvon — Maxen Wledig — Moel y Cynghorion — The Wyddfa — Snow of Snowdon — Rare Plant.
  30. Gronwy Owen — Struggles of Genius — The Stipend.
  31. Start for Anglesey — The Post–Master — Asking Questions — Mynydd Lydiart — Mr Pritchard — Way to Llanfair.
  32. Leave Pentraeth — Tranquil Scene — The Knoll — The Miller and his Wife — Poetry of Gronwy — Kind Offer — Church of Llanfair — No English — Confusion of Ideas — The Gronwy — Notable Little Girl — The Sycamore Leaf — Home from California.
  33. Boxing Harry — Mr Bos — Black Robin — Drovers — Commercial Travellers.
  34. Northampton — Horse — Breaking — Snoring.
  35. Brilliant Morning — Travelling with Edification — A Good Clergyman — Gybi.
  36. Moelfre — Owain Gwynedd — Church of Penmynnydd — The Rose of Mona.
  37. Mental Excitation — Land of Poets — The Man in Grey — Drinking Healths — The Greatest Prydydd — Envy — Welshmen not Hogs — Gentlemanly Feeling — What Pursuit? — Tell him to Walk Up — Editor of the TIMES — Careful Wife — Departure.
  38. Inn at L— The Handmaid — The Decanter — Religious Gentleman — Truly Distressing — Sententiousness — Way to Pay Bills.
  39. Oats and Methodism — The Little Girl — Ty Gwyn — Bird of the Roof — Purest English — Railroads — Inconsistency — The Boots.
  40. Caer Gyby — Lewis Morris — Noble Character.
  41. The Pier — Irish Reapers — Wild Irish Face — Father Toban — The Herd of Swine — Latin Blessing.
  42. Gage of Suffolk — Fellow in a Turban — Town of Holyhead — Father Boots — An Expedition — Holy Head and Finisterrae — Gryffith ab Cynan — The Fairies’ Well.
  43. The Inn at Bangor — Port Dyn Norwig — Sea Serpent — Thoroughly Welsh Place — Blessing of Health.
  44. National School — The Young Preacher — Pont Bettws — Spanish Words — Two Tongues, Two Faces — The Elephant’s Snout — Llyn Cwellyn — The Snowdon Ranger — My House — Castell y Cidwm — Descent to Beth Gelert.
  45. Inn at Beth Gelert — Delectable Company — Lieutenant P-.
  46. The Valley of Gelert — Legend of the Dog — Magnificent Scenery — The Knicht — Goats in Wales — The Frightful Crag — Temperance House — Smile and Curtsey.
  47. Spanish Proverb — The Short Cut — Predestinations — Rhys Goch — Old Crusty — Undercharging — The Cavalier.
  48. The Bill — The Two Mountains — Sheet of Water — The Afanc–Crocodile — The Afanc–Beaver — Tai Hirion — Kind Woman — Arenig Vawr — The Beam and Mote — Bala.
  49. Tom Jenkins — Ale of Bala — Sober Moments — Local Prejudices — The States — Unprejudiced Man — Welsh Pensilvanian Settlers — Drapery Line — Evening Saunter.
  50. The Breakfast — The Tomen Bala — El Punto de la Vana.
  51. The Ladies of Llangollen — Sir Alured — Eisteddfodau — Pleasure and Care.
  52. The Treachery of the Long Knives — The North Briton — The Wounded Butcher — The Prisoner.
  53. The Dylluan — The Oldest Creatures.
  54. Chirk — The Middleton Family — Castell y Waen — The Park — The Court Yard — The Young Housekeeper — The Portraits — Melin y Castell — Humble Meal — Fine Chests for the Dead — Hales and Hercules.
  55. A Visitor — Apprenticeship to the Law — Croch Daranau — Lope de Vega — No Life like the Traveller’s.
  56. Ringing of Bells — Battle of Alma — The Brown Jug — Ale of Llangollen — Reverses.
  57. The Newspaper — A New Walk — Pentre y Dwr — Oatmeal and Barley–Meal — The Man on Horseback — Heavy News.
  58. Sunday Night — Sleep, Sin, and Old Age — The Dream — Lanikin Figure — A Literary Purchase.
  59. History of Twm O’r Nant — Eagerness for Learning — The First Interlude — The Cruel Fighter — Raising Wood — The Luckless Hour — Turnpike–Keeping — Death in the Snow — Tom’s Great Feat — The Muse a Friend — Strength in Old Age — Resurrection of the Dead.
  60. Mystery Plays — The Two Prime Opponents — Analysis of Interlude — Riches and Poverty — Tom’s Grand Qualities.
  61. Set out for Wrexham — Craig y Forwyn — Uncertainty — The Collier — Cadogan Hall — Methodistical Volume.
  62. Rhiwabon Road — The Public-house Keeper — No Welsh — The Wrong Road — The Good Wife.
  63. Preparations for Departure — Cat provided for — A Pleasant Party — Last Night at Llangollen.
  64. Departure for South Wales — Tregeiriog — Pleasing Scene — Trying to Read — Garmon and Lupus — The Cracked Voice — Effect of a Compliment — Llan Rhyadr.
  65. Inn at Llan Rhyadr — A low Englishman — Enquiries — The Cook — A Precious Couple.
  66. Sycharth — The Kindly Welcome — Happy Couple — Sycharth — Recalling the Dead — Ode to Sycharth.
  67. Cup of Coffee — Gwen — Bluff old Fellow — A Rabble Rout — All from Wrexham.
  68. Llan Silin Church — Tomb of Huw Morris — Barbara and Richard — Welsh Country Clergyman — The Swearing Lad — Anglo–Saxon Devils.
  69. Church of Llan Rhyadr — The Clerk — The Tablet — Stone — First View of the Cataract.
  70. Mountain Scenery — The Rhyadr — Wonderful Feat.
  71. Wild Moors — The Guide — Scientific Discourse — The Land of Arthur — The Umbrella — Arrival at Bala.
  72. Cheerful Fire — Immense Man — Doctor Jones — Recognition — A Fast Young Man — Excellent Remarks — Disappointment.
  73. Breakfast — The Freckled Maid — Llan uwch Llyn — The Landlady — Llewarch Hen — Conversions to the Church.
  74. Proceed on Journey — The Lad and Dog — Old Bala — The Pass — Extensive View — The Two Men — The Tap Nyth — The Meeting of the Waters — The Wild Valley — Dinas Mawddwy.
  75. Inn at Mallwyd — A Dialogue — The Cumro.
  76. Mallwyd and its Church — Sons of Shoemakers — Village Inn — Dottings.
  77. The Deaf Man — Funeral Procession — The Lone Family — The Welsh and their Secrets — The Vale of the Dyfi — The Bright Moon.
  78. Welsh Poems — Sessions Business — The Lawyer and his Client — The Court — The Two Keepers — The Defence.
  79. Machynlleth — Remarkable Events — Ode to Glendower — Dafydd Gam — Lawdden’s Hatchet.
  80. The Old Ostler — Directions — Church of England Man — The Deep Dingle — The Two Women — The Cutty Pipe — Waen y Bwlch — The Deaf and Dumb — The Glazed Hat.
  81. The Mining Compting Room — Native of Aberystwyth — Story of a Bloodhound — The Young Girls — The Miner’s Tale — Gwen Frwd — The Terfyn.
  82. Consequential Landlord — Cheek — Darfel Gatherel — Dafydd Nanmor — Sheep Farms — Wholesome Advice — The Old Postman — The Plant de Bat — The Robber’s Cavern.
  83. Wild Scenery — Awful Chasm — John Greaves — Durham County — Queen Philippa — The Two Aldens — Welsh Wife — The Noblest Business — The Welsh and the Salve — The Lad John.
  84. The Hospice — The Two Rivers — The Devil’s Bridge — Pleasant Recollections.
  85. Dinner at the Hospice — Evening Gossip — A Day of Rain — A Scanty Flock — The Bridge of the Minister — Legs in Danger.
  86. Birth and Early Years of Ab Gwilym — Morfudd — Relic of Druidism — The Men of Glamorgan — Legend of Ab Gwilym — Ab Gwilym as a Writer — Wonderful Variety — Objects of Nature — Gruffydd Gryg.
  87. Start for Plynlimmon — Plynlimmon’s Celebrity — Troed Rhiw Goch.
  88. The Guide — The Great Plynlimmon — A Dangerous Path — Source of the Rheidol — Source of the Severn — Pennillion — Old Times and New — The Corpse Candle — Supper.
  89. A Morning View — Hafod Ychdryd — The Monument — Fairy-looking Place — Edward Lhuyd.
  90. An Adventure — Spytty Ystwyth — Wormwood.
  91. Pont y Rhyd Fendigaid — Strata Florida — The Yew–Tree — Idolatry — The Teivi — The Llostlydan.
  92. Nocturnal Journey — Maes y Lynn — The Figure — Earl of Leicester — Twm Shone Catti — The Farmer and Bull — Tom and the Farmer — The Cave — The Threat — Tom a Justice — The Big Wigs — Tregaron.
  93. Tregaron Church — The Minister — Good Morning — Tom Shone’s Disguises — Tom and the Lady — Klim and Catti.
  94. Llan Ddewi Brefi — Pelagian Heresy — Hu Gadarn — God of Agriculture — The Silver Cup — Rude Tablet.
  95. Lampeter — The Monk Austin — The Three Publicans — The Tombstone — Sudden Change — Trampers — A Catholic — The Bridge of Twrch.
  96. “Pump Saint” — Pleasant Residence — The Watery Coom — Philological Fact — Evening Service — Meditation.
  97. Llandovery — Griffith ap Nicholas — Powerful Enemies — Last Words — Llandovery Church — Rees Pritchard — The Wiser Creature — God’s better than All — The Old Vicarage.
  98. Departure from Llandovery — A Bitter Methodist — North and South — The Caravan — Captain Bosvile — Deputy Ranger — A Scrimmage — The Heavenly Gwynfa — Dangerous Position.
  99. Inn at Gutter Vawr — The Hurly-burly — Bara y Caws — Change of Manner — Welsh Mistrust — Wonders of Russia — The Emperor — The Grand Ghost Story.
  100. Morning — A Cheerless Scene — The Carter — Ode to Glamorgan — Startling Halloo — One-sided Liberty — Clerical Profession — De Courcy — Love of the Drop — Independent Spirit — Another People.
  101. Swansea — The Flemings — Towards England.
  102. Leave Swansea — The Pandemonium — Neath Abbey — Varied Scenery.
  103. Town of Neath — Hounds and Huntsman — Spectral Chapel — The Glowing Mountain
  104. Iron and Coal — The Martyred Princess — Cyfartha Fawr — Diabolical Structure.
  105. Start for Caerfili — Johanna Colgan — Alms–Giving — The Monstrous Female — The Evil Prayer — The Next Day — The Aifrionn — Unclean Spirits — Expectation — Wreaking Vengeance — A decent Alms.
  106. Pen y Glas — Salt of the Earth — The Quakers’ Yard — The Rhugylgroen.
  107. Caerfili Castle — Sir Charles — The Waiter — Inkerman.
  108. Town of Newport — The Usk — Note of Recognition — An Old Acquaintance — Connamara Quean — The Wake — The Wild Irish — The Tramping Life — Business and Prayer — Methodists — Good Counsel.
  109. Arrival at Chepstow — Stirring Lyric — Conclusion.

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