Journal of an overland expedition in Australia, from Moreton Bay to Port Essington, a distance of upwards of 3000 miles, during the years 1844–1845

by

Ludwig Leichhardt

eBooks@Adelaide
2004


Table of Contents

DEDICATION

PREFACE

INTRODUCTION

CHAPTER I

LEAVE THE LAST STATION—FOSSIL REMAINS—DARLING DOWNS—ENTER THE WILDERNESS—WATERLOO PLAINS—THE CONDAMINE—HEAVY RAINS—CHARLEY'S MISCONDUCT—MURPHY AND CALEB LOST—KENT'S LAGOON—COAL—MURPHY AND CALEB FOUND AGAIN.

CHAPTER II

PARTY REDUCED BY THE RETURN OF MR. HODGSON AND CALEB—MEET FRIENDLY NATIVES—NATIVE TOMB—THE DAWSON—VERVAIN PLAINS—GILBERT'S RANGE—LYND'S RANGE—ROBINSON'S CREEK—MURPHY'S LAKE—MOUNTAINOUS COUNTRY—EXPEDITION RANGE—MOUNT NICHOLSON—ALDIS'S PEAK—THE BOYD.

CHAPTER III

RUINED CASTLE CREEK—ZAMIA CREEK—BIGGE'S MOUNTAIN—ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR REDUCED—NATIVES SPEAR A HORSE—CHRISTMAS RANGES—BROWN'S LAGOONS—THUNDER-STORMS—ALBINIA DOWNS—COMET CREEK—NATIVE CAMP.

CHAPTER IV

SWARMS OF COCKATOOS—ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR FURTHER REDUCED—NATIVE FAMILY—THE MACKENZIE—COAL—NATIVES SPEAKING A DIFFERENT IDIOM—MOUNT STEWART—BROWN AND MYSELF MISS THE WAY BACK TO THE CAMP—FIND OUR PARTY AGAIN, ON THE FOURTH DAY—NEUMAN'S CREEK—ROPER'S PEAK—CALVERT'S PEAK—GILBERT'S DOME—GREAT WANT OF WATER.

CHAPTER V

DIFFERENCE OF SOIL AS TO MOISTURE—PHILLIPS'S MOUNTAIN—ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR REDUCED AGAIN—HUGHS'S CREEK—TOMBSTONE CREEK—CHARLEY AND BROWN BECOME UNRULY—THE ISAACS—NATIVE WOMEN—COXEN'S PEAK AND RANGE—GEOLOGICAL CHARACTER—CHARLEY REBELS AGAIN AND LEAVES—BROWN FOLLOWS HIM—BOTH RETURN PENITENT—VARIATIONS OF THE WEATHER—SKULL OF NATIVE—FRIENDLY NATIVES VISIT THE CAMP.

CHAPTER VI

HEADS OF THE ISAACS—THE SUTTOR—FLINT-ROCK—INDICATIONS OF WATER—DINNER OF THE NATIVES APPROPRIATED BY US—EASTER SUNDAY—ALARM OF AN OLD WOMAN—NATIVES SPEAKING A LANGUAGE ENTIRELY UNKNOWN TO CHARLEY AND BROWN—A BARTER WITH THEM—MOUNT M'CONNEL.

CHAPTER VII

THE BURDEKIN—TRANSITION FROM THE DEPOSITORY TO THE PRIMITIVE ROCKS—THACKER'S RANGE—WILD FIGS—GEOLOGICAL REMARKS—THE CLARKE—THE PERRY.

CHAPTER VIII

BROWN AND CHARLEY QUARREL—NIGHT WATCH—ROUTINE OF OUR DAILY LIFE, AND HABITS OF THE MEMBERS OF THE PARTY—MOUNT LANG—STREAMS OF LAVA—A HORSE BREAKS HIS LEG, IS KILLED AND EATEN—NATIVE TRIBE—MR. ROPER'S ACCIDENT—WHITSUNDAY—BIG ANT HILL CREEK—DEPRIVED OF WATER FOR FIFTY HOURS—FRIENDLY NATIVES—SEPARATION CREEK—THE LYND—PSYCHOLOGICAL EFFECTS OF A SOJOURN IN THE WILDERNESS—NATIVE CAMP—SALT EXHAUSTED.

CHAPTER IX

THE STARRY HEAVENS—SUBSTITUTE FOR COFFEE—SAWFISH— TWO-STORIED GUNYAS OF THE NATIVES—THE MITCHELL—MURPHY'S PONY POISONED—GREEN TREE-ANT—NEW BEVERAGE—CROCODILE— AUDACITY OF KITES—NATIVES NOT FRIENDLY—THE CAMP ATTACKED AT NIGHT BY THEM—MESSRS. ROPER AND CALVERT WOUNDED, AND MR. GILBERT KILLED.

CHAPTER X

INDICATIONS OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE SEA—NATIVES MUCH MORE NUMEROUS—THE SEA; THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA—THE STAATEN—A NATIVE INTRUDES INTO THE CAMP—THE VAN DIEMEN—THE GILBERT—SINGULAR NATIVE HUTS—CARON RIVER—FRIENDLY NATIVES—THE YAPPAR—MR. CALVERT RECOVERED—MODE OF ENCAMPMENT—SWARMS OF FLIES—ABUNDANCE OF SALT—NATIVES FRIENDLY, AND MORE INTELLIGENT.

CHAPTER XI

SYSTEMATIC GRASS BURNINGS OF THE NATIVES—NATIVE CARVING—AUDACITY OF THE NATIVES OVERAWED—THE ALBERT, OR MAET SUYKER—NATIVE MODE OF MAKING SURE OF A DEAD EMU— BULLOCK BOGGED; OBLIGED TO KILL IT—NATIVE DEVICE FOR TAKING EMUS—BEAMES'S BROOK—THE NICHOLSON—RECONNOITRE BY NIGHT—SMITH'S CREEK—THE MARLOW.

CHAPTER XII

HEAPS OF OYSTER-SHELLS—FALSE ALARM OF A NATIVE IN THE CAMP—TURNER'S CREEK—WENTWORTH'S CREEK—JOURNALS LOST; FOUND AGAIN—THE VAN ALPHEN—IMPORTANCE OF TEA—CHOICE OF BULLOCKS FOR AN EXPEDITION—CHOICE OF A DOG—THE CALVERT—THE ABEL TASMAN—GLUCKING BIRD AGAIN—DISCOVER A MODE OF USING THE FRUIT OF THE PANDANUS—SEVEN EMU RIVER—CROCODILE—THE ROBINSON—SHOAL OF PORPOISES—NATIVE METHOD OF PREPARING THE FRUIT OF THE PANDANUS AND CYCAS FOR FOOD—MR. ROPER CONVALESCENT—WEAR AND TEAR OF CLOTHES—SUCCEED IN DRESSING THE SEEDS OF STERCULIA—THE MACARTHUR—FRIENDLY PARLEY WITH CIRCUMCISED NATIVES—STORE OF TEA EXHAUSTED—MEDICAL PROPERTY OF THE GREVILLEA DISCOVERED.

CHAPTER XIII

CAPE MARIA—OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF OUR COLLECTION OF NATURAL HISTORY—LIMMEN BIGHT RIVER—HABITS OF WATER BIRDS—NATIVE FISH TRAP—THE FOUR ARCHERS—THE WICKHAM—THE DOG DIES—IMMENSE NUMBER OF DUCKS AND GEESE—THE ROPER—THREE HORSES DROWNED—OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF MY BOTANICAL COLLECTION—MORE INTERCOURSE WITH FRIENLDY NATIVES, CIRCUMCISED—HODGSON'S CREEK—THE WILTON—ANOTHER HORSE DROWNED—ANXIETY ABOUT OUR CATTLE—AN ATTACK ON THE CAMP FRUSTRATED—BOILS—BASALT AGAIN—INJURIOUS EFFECTS OF THE SEEDS OF AN ACACIA.

CHAPTER XIV

INTERVIEW WITH A NATIVE—DISTRESSING HEAT—A HORSE STAKED: IT DIES—MYRIADS OF FLYING-FOXES—MAGNIFICENT VALLEY—FRIENDLY NATIVES—SHOT EXHAUSTED—INSTINCT OF BULLOCKS—SOUTH ALLIGATOR RIVER—FRIENDLY NATIVES WITH AN ENGLISH HANDKERCHIEF, AND ACQUAINTED WITH FIRE-ARMS—THEIR LANGUAGE—MIRAGE.

CHAPTER XV

JOY AT MEETING NATIVES SPEAKING SOME ENGLISH—THEY ARE VERY FRIENDLY—ALLAMURR—DISCERNMENT OF NATIVE SINCERITY—EAST ALLIGATOR RIVER—CLOUDS OF DUST MISTAKEN FOR SMOKE— IMPATIENCE TO REACH THE END OF THE JOURNEY—NATIVES STILL MORE INTELLIGENT—NYUALL—BUFFALOES; SOURCE FROM WHICH THEY SPRUNG—NATIVE GUIDES ENGAGED; BUT THEY DESERT US—MOUNT MORRIS BAY—RAFFLES BAY—LEAVE THE PACKHORSE AND BULLOCK BEHIND—BILL WHITE—ARRIVE AT PORT ESSINGTON—VOYAGE TO SYDNEY.

APPENDIX.

LETTER FROM THE COLONIAL SECRETARY TO DR. LEICHHARDT
THE LEICHHARDT TESTIMONIAL

LIST OF PLATES (Not included in this etext)

Lagoon near South Alligator River
Portraits of "Charley" and "Harry Brown"
Mount Nicholson, Expedition Range, &c.
Peak Range
Red Mountain
Fletcher's Awl, &c.
Campbell's Peak
Mount M'Connel.
Ranges seen from a granitic hill between second and third camp at the Burdekin
Robey's Range
Grasshopper
View near South Alligator River
Victoria Square, Port Essington

 


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